Two leather jackets can look almost identical in a photo and feel completely different on the body. The reason is nearly always the hide. Sheepskin, cowhide, lambskin and suede age differently, weigh differently and handle cold weather differently, so choosing the right one matters more than the color or the number of pockets.
This guide explains the practical differences between the leathers used across the Learto leather jacket range, so you can match the material to how you actually plan to wear it.
Sheepskin: soft, light and naturally warm
Sheepskin is the most common leather in our collection and for good reason. It is lighter than cowhide, drapes closer to the body and feels soft from the first wear rather than needing weeks to break in. Because the fibres are finer, sheepskin jackets move easily and suit slim, tailored cuts such as cafe racer jackets and fitted women's styles.
When the wool is left on the inside of the hide, it becomes shearling. A shearling jacket is essentially leather and insulation in one piece, which is why shearling and sheepskin jackets are the warmest things we make. Flight jackets such as the B3 were designed in shearling precisely because bomber crews needed warmth at altitude without heavy layers.
The trade-off is toughness. Sheepskin scuffs more easily than cowhide and is not the leather to choose if you want something that will shrug off years of hard riding. For everyday wear, winter warmth and comfort, it is hard to beat.
Cowhide: the heavyweight that lasts for decades
Cowhide is thicker, stiffer and heavier than sheepskin. A new cowhide jacket feels structured on the shoulders and takes a few weeks of wear before it softens and starts to mould to you. Once it does, it holds that shape for years, which is why classic leather biker jackets have traditionally been made from it.
Cowhide also offers the best abrasion resistance of the leathers here, so it is the natural choice for anyone who rides. It develops a rich patina with age, and distressed finishes look especially good on it. The downside is weight: a full cowhide motorcycle coat is noticeably heavier than its sheepskin equivalent, and it is less forgiving in warm weather.
Lambskin: the softest option
Lambskin comes from younger sheep, so the grain is finer and the leather is even softer and lighter than standard sheepskin. It has a smooth, almost buttery hand feel and a subtle sheen that works well for dressier jackets and blazers. Because it is thin, lambskin needs a little more care; it marks more easily and is best kept for jackets you wear rather than jackets you work in.
Suede: matte texture and a softer look
Suede is not a different animal but a different finish. It is made from the underside of the hide, which gives it a velvety nap instead of a smooth surface. Suede jackets look more relaxed than smooth leather and pair naturally with denim, flannel and workwear.
Suede is more porous than finished leather, so it absorbs water and oil more readily. Treat it with a protector spray before the first wear, brush it with a suede brush to lift the nap, and avoid heavy rain. In return you get a jacket that softens beautifully and deepens in color over time.
Quick comparison
- Warmest: shearling sheepskin, then lined cowhide or suede.
- Lightest: lambskin, then sheepskin.
- Most durable: cowhide by a clear margin.
- Softest from day one: lambskin and sheepskin.
- Lowest maintenance: smooth cowhide and sheepskin; suede needs the most attention.
Which leather should you choose?
If you want one jacket for winter, choose shearling. If you ride or want something that will outlast everything else in your wardrobe, choose cowhide. If comfort and a slim silhouette matter most, choose sheepskin or lambskin. If you prefer a casual, textured look, choose suede and look after it.
Whichever hide you pick, measure before you order. Leather does not stretch the way fabric does, so check our leather jacket size guide and, if you are between sizes, go one size up to leave room for a sweater underneath. For care tips once your jacket arrives, read our guide to cleaning and caring for a leather jacket.
Ready to compare styles? Browse men's leather jackets and women's leather jackets, all made from genuine leather in sizes XXS to 4X.