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Biker, Cafe Racer or Bomber: Which Leather Jacket Style Suits You?

Oct 27

Ask for a leather jacket and most people picture one of three shapes. The biker jacket with its asymmetric zip, the minimal cafe racer and the bomber with its knitted cuffs are the styles that have survived every trend since the 1950s. They are not interchangeable, though. Each one sits differently on the body and suits a different kind of wardrobe, so it is worth knowing what you are choosing.

The biker jacket

The biker, also called the motorcycle or moto jacket, is the one with the diagonal front zip, wide snap-down lapels and a belted waist. The asymmetric zip exists so a rider can fasten the jacket off-centre and keep wind from forcing its way through the front. Zipped cuffs, shoulder epaulets and multiple zipped pockets complete the look.

It is the boldest of the three styles. A biker jacket makes an outfit, so it works best with simple pieces: a plain tee, dark denim and boots. Traditionally made from cowhide for abrasion resistance, modern versions in sheepskin are lighter and more comfortable for people who are not actually riding. Browse leather biker jackets for both.

Choose a biker jacket if you want a statement piece, you like a defined waist and you are comfortable with hardware.

The cafe racer

The cafe racer takes its name from the stripped-down motorcycles British riders built in the 1950s and 1960s to race between cafes. The jacket is just as stripped down: a short band or stand collar that snaps closed, a straight centre zip, two or three minimal pockets and a slim cut with no belt and no lapels.

Because it has so little going on, a cafe racer is the easiest leather jacket to dress up. It works over a shirt, under an overcoat and even with tailored trousers. It is also the most flattering cut for slimmer builds, since it follows the body closely. Our cafe racer jackets are mostly cut from sheepskin, which keeps them light and close-fitting.

Choose a cafe racer if you want a clean, understated jacket that goes with everything and you prefer minimal detailing.

The bomber

The bomber descends from military flight jackets and keeps their defining features: rib-knit collar, cuffs and hem, a straight zip and slash or flap pockets. The knit trim gives the bomber its slightly blouson shape, fuller through the body and gathered at the waist, which makes it the most relaxed of the three.

Bombers are comfortable, easy to layer and less formal than a biker or racer. They pair naturally with sweatshirts and sneakers, and shearling-lined versions are among the warmest jackets you can buy. Compare plain and shearling styles in our leather bomber jackets, or read about the military originals in our guide to A2, B3 and G1 flight jackets.

Choose a bomber if you want comfort and warmth first, you like a casual, sporty look and you want room to layer.

Fit differences to know before you order

Cafe racers are cut slim and short, finishing at the belt. Biker jackets are also short but have more room in the shoulders, and the belt lets you adjust the waist. Bombers are fuller in the body and rely on the knit hem to sit snug at the hip. If you are between sizes, go up for a bomber you plan to layer, stay true to size for a cafe racer and use the belt to fine-tune a biker. Our size guide has chest, shoulder and sleeve measurements for every size from XXS to 4X.

Which leather for each style?

Cowhide suits biker jackets, where structure and durability matter. Sheepskin and lambskin suit cafe racers, where a close, soft fit matters. Bombers work in either, and shearling turns a bomber into a winter coat. For a full breakdown, see sheepskin vs cowhide vs suede.

Can you wear all three?

Plenty of people do. A black biker for evenings, a brown cafe racer for the office and weekends, and a shearling bomber for winter cover most situations without overlap. If you are buying your first leather jacket, start with the style that matches the clothes you already own: sneakers and hoodies point to a bomber, shirts and chinos to a cafe racer, boots and denim to a biker.

Explore the full range of men's leather jackets and women's leather jackets, all cut and stitched by hand from genuine leather.

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